I am so excited that Himalayans are this issue's featured variety! It was my son's first serious show variety from the very beginning. Calling a Himalayan Mini Rex a "serious show variety" back then did raise a few skeptical eyebrows from our friends. Quality was not competitive with other varieties and numbers at local shows were very limited. Since we started, we watched a growing number of breeders take interest in them and accept the challenge to improve them. So much that today it is not uncommon to see them take a Best In Show nod! Currently, we are seeing local show numbers on the rise and national show numbers reaching 50 or more.

Himalayans became an accepted variety back in 1989 when presented by Virginia Minden. They were first called Californians, but soon after, their name was changed to Himalayan. They are commonly nicknamed Himi. That's H-I-M-I ... Not HEMI. They are to have large deep dark "point" markings, which includes color on the ears, nose, feet/legs, and tail. The remainder of the body is white. A perfectly typed and colored Himi Mini Rex closely resembles that of the Californian, a 6 Class meat breed. For this reason, Himi Mini Rex breeders are usually glad when they hear they will be showing under a "meat judge". Judges who specialize in meat breeds typically stop and take special interest when they see a Himi cross their table. All judges will usually always compliment a breeder who's rabbit has especially dark clean points.

In any rabbit breed or variety, Californians and Himalayans are temperature sensitive, which can add to the breeding challenge. Abrupt weather patterns in your area can change the point markings in a matter of days or even hours in some cases! When the weather is cold, the point markings intensify and become extremely dark. In the coldest winter months Himis may smut over the eye and on the dewlap, which is fine to show. Genetically dark Himis are prone to smutting on the belly which is a disqualification. During the hot summer months, Himis will go in the opposite direction to where point color will fade and toenails will lighten. These Himis risk disqualification because of lack of color intensity.

Himalayans show best in the fall or spring when the temperature is not too hot or too cold. They also tend to show best at around 6 months of age, which is after their junior molt and before their first major adult molt. Some genetic lines will darken as the Himi ages, but some lines will lighten as they age. It all depend upon what color background that rabbit holds.

Today's Himalayans can rival any other variety out there, but to pull off the big win, they've got to have striking point color. There should be no questions as to what color they are. Unfortunately, many Himis are lacking intense point and nail color. It is very common for Himis to take on a "chocolaty hue" in summer, making judges question what color they are. Some are so lightly marked that they are labeled "Blue Himi" on their pedigree. This issue is caused by breeders straying away from a genetically dark Himi to Himi breeding. We aren't talking about lackluster Himi to Himi breeding... we're talking about intense color breedings that gain the desired brilliance the standard calls for. Unfortunately, sticking to Himi to Himi breedings is not always possible. Breeders are steadily on the quest to improve type and fur and will use different colors in their himi line to achieve it. Problem is, Himalayans with a diverse color background can loose their "identity", therefore expressing various color problems. Heinz 57 Mini Rex with "rainbow pedigrees" are NOT recommended when breeding Himis.

Though my son and I breed Himi to Himi very frequently, we still have an occasional Himi pop out of two non-himi crosses. If the type and fur is nice, we'll hang onto it and reintroduce it back into the himi line. This is a great practice if you know your lines well and know what your end goal is, but it can also be detrimental if you are inexperienced. Since Himalayans have been our main variety for a number of years, I'll fill you in on what to expect from certain color crosses. Keep in mind, results will vary depending upon what color is farther up the family tree. Use the following information to guide you along with your own results.

Color Guide

* Remember... Both parents have to carry Himi before you get one in your litter. If one of them doesn't carry Himi, then you are breeding for carriers to use the next generation.

Himi X Himi - At least one of these animals should have amazing point color. Breeding in great point color with every subsequent generation will vastly improve your markings!

Himi X Black - I've heard several Himi breeders recommend black to "blacken" point color. My experience has been decent dark points, but nail color can lighten up in summer. Size of point markings are average to good and are usually nice and black.

Himi X Blue - Works in the same way as black as far as point color and size. A nice change of pace if you are working on Blue Himi, though you rarely see that variety on the table. Big BIG problem is nail color will fade very quickly and risk DQ, which is why we keep all blues out of our Himi program.

Himi X Chocolate - A HUGE no-no! If you see Chocolate in a Himi pedigree, RUN! Chocolate Himis are not approved and won't be in the foreseeable future. Chocolate is a recessive color that will pop up out of no where and haunt your Himi line forever. It isn't a big deal to get a Chocolate Himi in a litter, but please cull it. I suspect many of today's light points and nail color is from a Himi that is expressing a chocolate from somewhere within it's line.

Himi X Lilac - An even bigger no-no than Chocolate. Point color will be virtually gone. For the love of Himi breeders everywhere, please don't do it!

Himi X Agouti - I don't recommend using any agouti in your Himi line. Leg markings will become striped as will the base of the ear. Nose marking will also have a mottled look around the nostril area. Some will argue that Chinchilla is a good compromise since they are from the same series of genes, but a Himi out of this cross will be too lightly marked AND have the striping on the legs.

Himi X Otter - I recommend only Black Otter if you do use one. Watch for martenized himis from this cross (otter himi). If you get an "actual Himi", you can get nicely pointed Himis. Size of points are fair to good. Watch out for poor nail color and faded foot pads.

Himi X Red - No experience with this one.

Himi X Sable Point - More appropriately called 'non extension Himi'. Points are sepia colored and VERY faded. Nail color poor. Should be DQ'd on the table. Do not use this cross in a Himi program!!

Himi X Sable - Very good color to use! Enlarges your point markings, darkens your points and nail color. A Sable with Sable Point background is OK to use, but try to find one without SP if you can.

Himi X Seal - We have experience with "Dark Sable" Seals, (not True Seals) and found they are great to use in our Himi program. A Dark Sable looks like a True Seal, but had red eyes when you shine a light in their eyes and usually come out of a REW background. Seals will work like a Sable.

Himi X Tortoise - Know your backgrounds before experimenting with this color. Black Tort might be an option, but make sure there is no Chocolate lurking behind it. Himis out of this cross may take on the sepia coloration of the Sable Point which could be hard to get out in subsequent generations. Offspring will be great for a Sable Point program, but I don't endorse it for a Himi program unless you trust the breeder.

Himi X Ruby-eyed White - Use a REW out of a black background. Point markings will shrink quite a bit, but should remain intense. We like using REW once in a while.

Himi X Blue-eyed White - no results known by this author.

Himi X Broken - We have found this cross to be successful if done with Black. Point markings of decent size, nail color can fade in summer. Cull all Broken Himis!!

If you are working to improve type and/or fur in a variety and feel the need to introduce a second variety, you should ALWAYS take those offspring back to the desired variety and stay there for a generation or so. Reinforcement of the main variety will keep your color as close to the standard as possible. This especially holds true for the Himalayan. Responsible breeders should always warn prospective Himi buyers of what you were trying to accomplish by using another color and should not sell stock that will cause future color issues to this variety.

The only colors currently accepted for Himi Mini Rex are Black and Blue. There has been small talk in past years from those who hope to expand to Chocolate and Lilac Himi, but no changes are in the works at this time. Personally, this is an addition I strongly oppose. The ideal way of going about this venture would be to keep the lines clean by using only animals with a pure line of self colors (black, blue, chocolate and lilac). But, since there are so many Mini Rex varieties available, which have already polluted the Himi gene pool, it would be nearly impossible to get the crisp brilliant point markings needed for a perfectly colored Himi. Let's not forget how beautiful the sharp contrast is between the bold black point markings and the clean white body. Frankly, Blacks are the only way to go for me!

Birth - Himi babies are born pure white. When exposed to the cold during or shortly after birth, they will become "chilled" and grow a dusting of grey over their body making them appear "frosted". Out of those that are frosted, there are varying degrees of intensity. Those with more intense frosting seem to have the darkest point color as adults.

3 Days - Most himis will start a tiny little black button on the nose and coloration will start on the tail. Genetically weak colored Himis will take as many as 10 days to start darkening in these areas.

6 Days - Ear color will start around the outer edges of the ears.

10 Days - Eyes will open and feet markings will start around the toes.

2 Weeks - Strongly marked Himi kits will have all point markings in place, feet being the last. Weaker colored Himis will show off lighter markings in the nose, ear and tail, and likely nothing on the feet yet.

4 Weeks - Feet should be lightly colored in by now and some may even start becoming colored up the leg. Nose, ears and tail will be darker than feet at this time. Himis from dark genetic lines will already have prominent dark markings.

6 Weeks - All color should be in. It may be dark or it may be light, but a quality colored Himi should have some color in all point areas.

8 Weeks - Evaluate all juniors by type and markings. If they lack in type and are missing markings cull now, because they won't develop into the color appropriate for showing. If they are good in type and still light in point coloration, don't cull yet you may consider keeping it for a future breeding to a superior marked mate.

4- 6 months - Full coloration should be in by 6 months, no matter what time of year.

There is truly nothing more satisfying to a Himi breeder than to take their own line and pull off a big win with one of their rabbits! Don't be afraid to take the plunge yourself. There are a lot of good Himis out there to choose from with much of the work already done for you. I can guarantee, you'll find this striking color rewarding and enjoyable!